Eastern Perfumery: Pierre Montale’s Aoud Rose Petals

Montale Aoud Rose Petals

Scent Dynamics: Opens up with a field of roses, or at least a giant rose bush.   Oud comes out strong 5-10 minutes later and wrestles with the rose about 20 minutes.   During this stage, Aoud Rose Petals is a sharp.   I think that the medicinal quality of oud hides in its ability to feel like it reaches all the way down your nose and into your throat, the same way an alcohol iodine solution does.   Twenty minutes later, oud mellows down, becomes pleasantly woody, and the rose takes center stage.   From here on, it is a pretty, creamy rose with a touch of sweetness and a depth of oud.   Lasts forever, and projects very strongly.

Opinion: Montale’s Aoud Rose Petals is not a sweet, drunk, rose like Tom Ford’s Noir de Noir.   It is not a soft tea rose either.   It is not a musky rose which overwhelms you with its sexuality, as is the case for Montale’s Roses Musk.   Montale’s Aoud Rose Petals is a sea of rose petals around a burning altar of oud.

I can’t think of it as a western perfume.  It constructed in a way that only centuries of tradition can permit – it is simple yet very powerful in effect.  It is opulent as opposed to elegant.  It is beautiful without any reservations.

I think that this is Piere Montale’s most powerful idea.  He took an undeniably gorgeous rose note, and instead of trying to tame it with fresh notes, westernize it with powdery notes, or vulgarize it with musk, he amplified the hell out of this rose with his most powerful ingredient – oud.   The result is an enormously beautiful, proud and an unapologetic rose parfum.  This perfume is a dark haired woman, painted in bald strokes, who had not even once in her life looked at herself in the mirror and thought she was less than perfect in her features.

If you think of attars as a blend of rose and oud, you will find Aoud Rose Petals to be quintessential attar.   It is simple, enormously powerful, gorgeous, and very effective at what it is supposed to do.

Rating:  Every time I wear Aoud Rose Petals,  I am stunned at how pretty it is, and secretly want to wear it every single day of my life.  After wearing it for a few days, I come to a sad realization that beautiful is just not my thing, and that the fragrance does not have the complexity to keep me interested for many wearings in a row.

As it is the prettiest rose I own, I give it 8.5/10.


2 thoughts on “Eastern Perfumery: Pierre Montale’s Aoud Rose Petals

  1. Haven’t tried this one. Usually Montales Oudh based scents don’t sit well on my skin and tend to give me a headache ( Black Aoud, I’m looking at you) on the contrary, his scents with less Oudh in them or less focus is on the Oudh component of the fragrance fare very nicely , Red Aoud, Dark Aoud, and White Aoud. I think I may have to sniff this one out. Nice review!

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